Suitable Hamster Setups

Cage size is very important and often pet stores sell unsuitable cages, some claiming that they are suitable for hamsters up to the age of 12 weeks (You often adopt them between 6-12 weeks of age! So the cage would only be suitable for a couple of weeks, if at all)

Small cages can cause so much stress for hamsters, from causing cage aggressive, climbing and bar biting and even bring on neurological disorders, which are usually genetic, but usually bought on by stress.
You also can't fit all the suitable items needed for a hamster cage, with the housing, exercise, enrichment etc.
You will need to consider the bar spacing, as you don't want them to escape and a good deep base, so you can fill with suitable substrate, so they can burrow.
Top opening cages can be scarier for some, as you are coming from above, like a predator would in the wild, so if you have a top opening cage only, then make sure they know you are there, by softly speaking to them, otherwise you could spook them.

The RSPCA used to have a minimum cage size of 80cm x 50cm x 50cm - which they often abide by when they adopt out their animals and sometimes even suggest 100cm x 50cm cages, but they no longer have an official recommended size listed, which is frustrating and I feel their needs to be a law against small cages - obviously you can use them for carriers, hospital/recovery cages or for certain special cases, but not for everyday housing.

--------------------

Syrian hamsters often crave more space than other species, especially females, but obviously all hamsters and individuals and have their own preferences. In my experience and research, they prefer barred cages, as often chew out of plastic base cages, wooden cages or chew on the metal bars of the adapted, popular Detolf unit.

Dwarf hamsters (Winter Whites, Campbell Dwarfs and Hybrid dwarfs - also known as Russian dwarfs) can usually have the same cages recommended for Syrian hamsters, as they can have up to 1cm bar spacing, but they can also do well in non barred cages and tanks.

Robo Hamsters do great in plastic base cages or tanks, if you do choose a barred cage, please make sure it is suitable and has a maximum of 0.7cm bars, as they can squeeze through the smallest of spaces, as they 'pancake' you may see this when they get too hot, as it helps them cool down.

Chinese Hamsters can also get through tiny spaces, as they are very thin and small, especially young ones, so I always choose an all plastic cage or tank and steer away from barred cages, but I would imagine that a cage with 0.7cm or less bar spacing will be suitable for them too.

Suitable barred cages:
(Syrians, Dwarfs can have 1cm maximum bar spacing, Robos and Chinese 0.7cm or less)
Small Skyline Barney cage,
Skyline Barney cage XL,
Skyline Alexander,
Savic Plaza,
Ritz Rat cage,
Alaska,
Mamble 100,
Little Friends Coco Cage,
Kerbl Gabbia,
Ferplast Karat 100,
Ritz Rat Cage,
and Jemima 80.

Our Pixie the Dwarf hamster's Setup (Small Skyline Barney cage)

Our Buddy the Syrian hamster's Setup (Alaska cage)

Suitable non barred cages:
(Syrians often get frustrated in these cages and chew their way out or chew the metal bar on the Detolf, so I wouldn't recommend any of the following for Syrian hamsters personally)
Adapted Detolf Ikea Unit,
Ferplast Duna Multy Maxi
Zoozone 2
Skyline Marrakesh,
and Living World Green Eco Habitat Medium.

Our Buttons the Chinese hamster's Setup (Duna Multy Maxi)

Our Buttons the Chinese hamster's Setup (Zoozone 2)

Photo thanks to Sara Gee of Onyx the Syrian's Setup (Living World Green Eco Habitat Medium)

Pawhut wooden cages over 80cm by 50cm or larger are also suitable - but I personally do not like wooden cages, as we try to encourage hamsters to chew wood to help their teeth health but then we don't want them to chew their cage, so some chew their way out, you would also need to safely coat the whole cage with a suitable, safe sealant, if it isn't coated already, to protect from urine soaking in and staining and making the cage permanently smell.

Falsely advertised cages that state they are 80cm by 50cm cages, if you measure the smallest part of the bases, it falls way below, because the bases taper in quite a bit, also the Hamster Heaven and Sky Metro cages have lots of reports of escapees, through the front door, that needs to be closed on the second latch. Also lots of reported escapes through the tubes, which are also dangerous, as they are too small for Syrians and they often live in them, filling with their bedding, food and even toilet in them, they don't have a huge amount of ventilation in the tubes as it is, but it can make them ill if they live in them like that. Not forgetting the penthouse on the Hamster Heaven, where they have had lots of escapees and reports of them just staying and living in there.

So I wouldn't recommend the Hamster Heaven, Savic Ruffy 2 or Sky Metro permanently, even though they state they are 80cm by 50cm.

Our Beatrix the Dwarf hamster's Setup (Sky Metro/Hamster Heaven)

Our Fidget the Dwarf hamster's Setup (Sky Metro/Hamster Heaven)

Our Cookie the Syrian hamster's Setup (Sky Metro/Hamster Heaven)

*Remember to fill your substrate to the top of the base of the cage if you can, the more substrate, usually the better for burying, unfortunately my setup pictures, don't all reflect this.*

Cage Contents

Here is a basic list of what you should supply in your hamster enclosure:

Substrate
Suitable substrate such as unscented, paper based bedding that does not contain baking powder/soda, these can usually be used as bedding too. Some examples are Carefresh, Kaytee Clean and Cosy, Fitch or Small Pet Select paper based bedding. You want to aim to have at least 6 inches of substrate/bedding, so that your hamster can burrow, which is one of their natural behaviours.
Please do not use any form of fluffy bedding and most shavings are unsuitable, if you must use shavings, please make sure they are made from Aspen only.

Hide/House
A good size hide is essential, some hamsters prefer to burrow and sleep under their substrate, but those it is important to provide a nice size hide for them to be able to use if they need to, this can help them feel secure and keep them warm. You can fill it with paper based bedding or unscented tissue/toilet roll is fine to use, you can rip it up or leave them as they are.
Wooden houses are a good option, I love the Ferplast Sin Houses, they come in various sizes.
I would avoid using fabric houses, due to if they get chewed, they can ingest the fabric/fluff which is dangerous and can cause a blockage or your hamster could get stuck in the hole they have created.

Ferplast, Wooden Sin House

Wheel
Your hamster will need a solid (please avoid wire wheels) suitable size wheel, plastic or wooden are both suitable, just make sure they don't have any gaps, where they can catch their little feet and no splintering wood. I have personally found that wooden wheels are a lot quieter and stay quiet, you may wish to coat it in suitable water based sealant to protect the wood from urine staining.
Roborovski and Dwarf hamsters should have a minimum of a 20cm wheel / 8 inches.
Chinese and Syrian hamsters should have a minimum of a 28cm wheel / 12 inches.
Plastic Trixie Wheels and the Wooden Trixie Wheels are highly recommended.

Plastic Trixie Wheel and Wooden Trixie Wheel

Saucers style wheels can be used, but they must be the same size as a suitable wheel and must be an addition to having a suitable upright wheel. I prefer not to use them as they take up a lot of space and I often find that my hamsters tend to run slightly sidewards on them, so not great for their spines.

Sand bath
Your hamster will need a good size sand bath, it needs to be big enough for them to be able to roll around in and deep enough to dig around in. I often use ceramic dog bowls or ceramic lasagne dishes, although if you can supply a larger area of sand, that would be even better. Roborovski hamsters, although they are the smallest species of hamster, they usually benefit the most from a larger area of sand. 
I prefer to use a ceramic container, as cardboard can be chewed up and leak out the sand, plastic and foil can be chewed or cracked, which can cause blockages or injury, so best not to use, unless it is really thick plastic.
You do not need to use a container at all and can fill some of the base with sand, but this can make it more difficult to change or remove.
Sand baths are for hamsters to be able to clean themselves, as they cannot get wet, as if they get wet they can get really ill and due from hyperthermia. Some hamsters will also choose to litter train themselves in their sand, so you may want to provide two separate sand baths or sift out their urine and poop regularly.
Suitable sand is usually reptile sand that doesn't contain colourants or calcium, you can also use hamster sand and some chinchilla sand, make sure it is sand though and not dust or powder, as they are too fine and can cause respiratory issues. You can however use Children's play sand, but it has larger grains and will need baking to fully sanitise and dry it out.
Unsuitable sand is bird sand, builders sand, calcium sand, dust or powdered sand.

Tiny Friends Farm Sand is safe but often questioned in forums and groups, due to people suggesting they have changed the ingredients or different from the US one, which are both apparently not the case. I contacted them myself and they have allowed me to share my response with my readers.
So it is up to you whether you use this product yourself or choose another brand.

You may need to click to enlarge the image.
Email received Thursday 8th April 2021

Water source
Your hamster will need either a bottle or ceramic bowl to drink from, you can even offer both!
Most people opt for a bottle, as they generally stay cleaner and can't be knocked over or get filled with bedding, but some hamsters choose to chew the bottle nozzle which isn't great for their teeth.
If you use a bottle, you need to make sure they can use it, that water comes out of it, that is doesn't leak and stays clean. Bottles can harbour germs or algae, so you need to check it, clean it regularly and change the water daily ideally.
If you use a bowl, I'd to use a ceramic one, as they are generally heavier, which means they are less likely to get knocked over and I've heard of other animals having allergies to metal bowls. It is best to keep it away from bedding, otherwise you may end up with a bowl full of soaked bedding and your hamster won't be able to hydrate themselves. You also want a shallow bowl, as hamsters shouldn't get wet, so this will reduce the chances of them falling in, some people use tea light candle holders.
Just make sure you check they have clean water regularly, that they have a clean bowl and that it is replaced and topped up when needed.

Food bowl (optional)
Food bowls are optional for their seed mixes and pellets, as scatter feeding is good enrichment, by scattering their food around their cage, they can 'hunt' for it and collect it themselves, as hamsters tend to be hoarders, so it keeps them active and adds some activity. You can also supply a treat bar or vegetable Whimzee, dog chew to help their teeth, which also won't need a bowl.
You may want to supply a small plate or bowl for any fresh food, so that it is easy to remove if they don't eat it, remember to check their nests for fresh food the day after as well, as you don't want it to perish.


Anything else is optional, but tunnels and wooden chew toys are great additions, please make sure that they can easily get through the tunnels, most tunnels sold for hamsters can be fairly tight so you will want to buy rat size tunnels for species like Syrian hamsters.
Cardboard and wooden tunnels are preferred or hard plastic, please be careful with the corrugated tunnels (like the yellow one pictured) as they can split at the folds, which can cause cuts and injuries.

Photo thanks to Sara Gee of Onyx the Syrian hamster