Wednesday 17 February 2021

Introduction

Welcome to Squeaks and Binkies, I created this blog to provide information mainly about hamsters and rabbits.
I have chosen to supply this information, as there is so much conflicting information around the internet and in forums, also some pet stores giving out lots of incorrect advice and selling inappropriate and even dangerous products.

I will supply all information as I believe to be true, from lots of research and years of experience with fostering and having my own fur babies, as part of the family. I am based in the UK, so a few things may differ from other countries, like rabbit vaccines availability. 

This is a site for pet hamsters and rabbits, no feeder hamsters or meat rabbits, we do not support unethical breeders, rodent mills or show rabbits. We do support vaccines, neutering rabbits and rescuing.


INTRODUCTION


Hamsters 🐹
(Lifespan 18 months - 26 months)
Crepuscular / Nocturnal creatures.
There are 5 main species of domesticated hamster - Syrian hamster, Chinese hamster, Winter White dwarf hamster, Campbell's dwarf hamster and the Roborovski / Robo hamster. (Most Russian dwarf hamsters are actually Hybrid hamsters, a hybrid between the Winter White and Campbell's dwarf, the only two hamster species that can breed with each other)

Hamsters are a popular first pet with many people and was my first proper pet too. Syrians and hybrids are the most commonly sold species, they are very similar in care and taming.
Unfortunately most pet store cages are super small and are known to be 'starter cages' and only suitable for hamsters up to 12 weeks of age, which is ridiculous, due to hamsters themselves being sold around 6-8 weeks of age at the youngest. They also sell way too many unsuitable products for them, including pine and cedar wood shavings, scented bedding/substrate, exercise balls, fluffy bedding and chew toys made from sawdust. 

The ideal minimum cage size for all species is 80cm by 50cm or larger, with female Syrians usually being more demanding and prefer a cage that is a minimum of 100cm by 50cm, but make sure the cage base doesn't taper at the bottom, and use your own measurements by measuring the inside of the smallest part of the cage, as some state they are the minimum when they truly aren't.
Syrians and Chinese hamsters do well with a 28cm wheel / 12 inches, it may seem a bit extreme when you first see one, but it ensures the hamster's back isn't arched at all and won't cause any back issues in the long run. Dwarfs and Robos do well with a 20cm wheel / 8 inches, but can often push larger ones too. Saucer type wheels are not recommended but if you choose to supply one, they will also need an upright wheel in their cage and the saucer must be the same size as the upright wheel. 
Other than the size of their cage, they need a dry, clean, warm, quiet place, where there are no draughts, making sure they are up away and secured from other animals and away from computers, televisions and other things that may project sound, like bathroom/kitchen taps. They are super sensitive to smells too, so no scented bedding, candles, plug ins, diffusers or cooking near them, as this can cause stress and respiratory problems.

The one downside to having a hamster is they usually wake up during the late evening/night and are awake most of the night and back in bed by the time we wake up, so taming and seeing your hamster can be minimal, those that barely see their humans are often referred to as 'ghost hamsters.' Which is one of the reasons hamsters aren't that great for children, as you should never wake a sleeping hamster, unless it is for your hamster's medical reasons.

Most places won't insure hamsters, you are better off putting money aside in a savings account for emergencies and vet bills. They also do not need neutering (unless it is for a medical reason) they do not need regular flea or mite prevention (only treatment if they get them) and there are no vaccines available for them, as well as no option to microchip them. They are pretty cheap pets, once you've got the full set up (around £100-£200) and if they don't require any vet treatment, one of the downsides is their short life span though and on average live around 2 years. You will need to see a vet that is very knowledgable on hamsters though, not all vets and vet surgeries are suitable, so do your research.

Over cleaning can cause stress, over scenting and make your hamster smell more, so it is best to spot clean regularly, they will bathe in their suitable sand bath (NEVER bath a hamster in water or get them wet) and then you can give them a deeper clean every 4-6 weeks, providing you have an appropriate size set up, paper based substrate and spot clean regularly.

Hamsters are adorable little creatures, they need quiet, time and lots of patience, if you get them from an ethical breeder, rescue or someone who has handled them well, then they generally settle in quicker and you will be aware of their personality and nature. 


Rabbits 🐰
(Lifespan 5 years - 15 years)
Crepuscular creatures.
There are loads of different breeds of domesticated rabbits, every rabbit has an individual personality.

Rabbits are very cute, make amazing pets and can live either indoors or outdoors, providing the conditions are right, they need a large amount of space and a friend of their own kind. Although they are pretty awesome creatures and very intelligent, they are very fragile, have sensitive digestion systems and their teeth are continuously growing.

They are usually known for being cheap, children's pets BUT this is far from the truth.
Unfortunately rabbits are the most neglected pets in the UK and there are thousands in rescues, with rescues overflowing, they also have huge waiting lists for rabbits to go into the centres and loads on selling sites. They can be costly due to needing a very strict diet, with constant access to hay to eat, neutering (Approx. £55-80 for males, £70-£120 for females) yearly vaccine (in 2020 most vets rolled out the triple vaccine, that covers myxomatosis, RHD and RHD2, Approx. £60-£90) The cost of their large set up - Indoor buns will need a secure enclosure (a cage isn't big enough) and you'll need to rabbit proof your home, outdoor buns will need a secure hutch or shed with access to a predator proof run, where they can't dig out either.
Different breeds are most prone to different illnesses, like dwarfs and flat faced buns being more prone to teeth issues and neurological issues due to their small skulls, with lop ear bunnies are more prone to ear problems. There is also the cost of Flystrike prevention, if you choose to use it, regular nail clippings, if you don't do it yourself, don't forget to microchip your rabbit/s and any other treatments, if they get worms, fleas or mites (only treat if they have them, do not use treatment as a prevention, as they will become immune.) Rabbits often get ill at the most inappropriate times, when vets are closed too - if they don't eat or go to the toilet for 12 hours or more, it is classed as an emergency and they will need to see a vet immediately, which mine costs around £170 just to be seen out of hours, before treatment or anything.
Some companies do offer rabbit insurance, the hardest thing to get covered seems to be their teeth and ears, so check what is covered, how much excess you have to pay and double check the terms and conditions, it is much harder to cover a rabbit over the age of 5.
Make sure your vet is rabbit savvy - although most vets will see rabbits, you need to research and get reviews if your vet is rabbit savvy, as rabbits go downhill very quickly and there is a very high risk when rabbits go under anaesthetic, you need a vet trained specifically in rabbits.

They need a lot of cleaning, although can be litter trained, but they poop a lot! 
Bunnies are also thought to be quite cuddly pets - in fact they are prey animals and in the wild, the only time they would be grabbed, held or picked up, would be from a predator, so it is actually quite stressful, you can get on the floor with them and interact that way, if you do pick a rabbit up, NEVER put them on their back, it can be very dangerous and is called trancing, always hold the head about their heart.

A few others things to consider is to research Flystrike, Gut statis, Snuffles, E. cuniculi (E.C) Sore hocks, Body score condition, Diet, Body language and Bonding.

Rabbits should NOT be housed with guinea pigs like some people used to suggest, there are many dangers, including rabbits carrying a bacteria that can pass onto guinea pigs and give them a disease, so keep rabbits and guinea pigs far apart. 

One more extremely important thing to remember is NEVER bathe a bunny - it can kill!
Be very careful getting rabbits wet altogether, if they get submerged in water or soaked, it can get into their undercoat and give rabbits hyperthermia, it is very hard to dry them completely, they are very clean animals and healthy rabbits do not need baths.

The best thing about having bunnies, if they can bring so much joy and are definitely worth all the hard work ❤️

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