The Importance of Hay for Rabbits

A rabbit's diet should be at least 80% of hay, they should eat at least their own body size in hay a day.

Rabbit's need constant access to hay to snack on throughout the day and night, this is to help keep the gut moving and to stop any blockages of fur or other things ingested. The chewing on the long fibres help to keep the muscles in their mouth and stomach stay strong.

Rabbits have 28 teeth and they are continuously growing, they grow around 12cm a year. Hay helps grind these teeth down and stop them growing into the side of their face and cause abscesses.

Murphy's Story

After a few messages back and forth, I was speaking to a lovely lady who was looking after her daughter's rabbit, after her daughter moved out and was unable to carry on caring for him. He was around 5-6 years old, known to be in good health and hadn't had any of his vaccinations or been neutered. We arranged for her to drop him off with some of his food and we'd plan on getting him neutered, if it was advisable due to his age, have all his vaccinations and pair him up with a neutered female bunny.

I was passed a cardboard box where this little bunny was sitting hunched up inside. I gently lifted him out, gave him a big cuddle and placed him down on the floor, where he ran to the litter tray full of hay and sat there peacefully.

After speaking to the lady more and observing the bunny I asked if he had had his teeth checked recently and she said 'why do you think there is something wrong with his teeth?' I stated that I ask these questions for most of the bunnies that were handed over and I was being more cautious as this bunny was stated not to of eaten hay for over 5 years.

Once the lady had left, bunny, now named Murphy, picked up some hay and kept spitting it out, I offered him some of his food which he seemed disinterested in and some treats. We would normally let a bunny settle in before we did anything for them, but we noticed some very overgrown nails and they had to be cut straight away for his own comfort.

Whilst trimming his nails I noticed his two front paws - one looked deformed without any hair on and the other was missing some hair, looked sore and had yellow fur around it.

An hour went by, he hadn't moved, drank, eaten or shown any interest in anything, his paws were sore to touch and I had a bad feeling about it all, so I rang the vets immediately. They managed to book him in for that evening.

It is always better to phone the vets if you are worried about a bunny's health as they can go down hill very quickly, especially with new rabbits, although sometimes it takes awhile for them to settle in, so they might not be in the greatest spirits, but even if you just book your new rabbit in for a general health check!

Whilst we were waiting for the veterinary appointment time to come closer, Murphy would sit grinding his teeth, so loudly, every ten minutes or so, still wouldn't eat or drink. This was very concerning and I was so grateful for the later appointment, I just wish it came sooner.

We arrived at the vets, they weighed him, checked his body condition, checked his ears and teeth. We explained our concerns and explained our plan for neutering and finding him a lady friend, which they completely agreed with but told us before he would have surgery for the neuter, that he would have to get better first.

The deformed bare foot and the balding yellow foot was burns from where he had been drooling, a life without hay had badly done damage to his teeth and now his paws, the vet prescribed him some gut stimulate, antibiotics and pain relief to try and encourage him to eat and poop, as a bunny with gut stasis isn't a good bunny to operate on and he would have to go back in the morning for an operation on his teeth.

After a night of him still grinding his teeth, we kept him indoors near our room so we could hear him. We heard nothing through the night, he hadn't even moved from where we placed him by the looks of it. Nothing was eaten, still no poop, but the vets decided he needed his teeth looking at or he may never eat again.

After a long afternoon of waiting for him to come out of surgery I received a phone call, 'Hello I'm calling about Murphy, we did all we could with his teeth, the operation was going well, we managed to complete the operation, he started to come around, but sadly his body couldn't take it, I'm so very sorry.'

We did all we could for him, I loved him so very much in the small amount of time of knowing him. The dreaded collection of the body had to happen though, so we went to collect him right away.

We spoke to the vet further and they said it was the life without hay that left him malnourished and with bad teeth, his teeth were the worst they had ever seen at the surgery, they even photographed it to show us. Most of his teeth were rotten, rotting or had already fallen out, he had some growing into the side of his face, which was the ones they had to remove, this was causing him all the pain.

Murphy had woken up for a few minutes after the operation but he was too poorly to carry on and his body just gave up.

How to Encourage your Bunny to Eat Hay

If your bunny won't eat hay there are lots of things you can do and try. There are a large variety of different hay available, the most popular being Timothy hay which also comes in lots of different brands and from different places, all tasting differently and of a different quality. So just because you've tried one type of Timothy hay, doesn't mean your bunny won't like a different brand. The greener more stalker hay is usually the best. There are other types such as meadow hay, oat hay and alfalfa hay but alfalfa hay is actually a legume hay rather than a grass hay, which should be limited an only for young growing bunnies, under 6 months old, as it can be quite fattening and high in calcium.

There is also a large variety of hay that contain different mixes, from dandelion mixes to marigold mixes, apple mixes to carrot mixes, they aren't good to supply all of the time but to help encourage them to eat hay and they can make a fantastic treat.

Cutting down on pellets can help encourage them to eat more hay, after all an adult rabbit over the age of 6 months, only needs a tablespoon of pellets per kilo gram maximum of rabbit per day.

Put hay above or in their litter tray, rabbits love to eat and poop at the same time, this will help encourage them.

Mix hay with fresh handpicked grass and herbs this will encourage them to eat more.

Hay cookies are available to help them get used to eating hay, but only give 1 or 2 a day and make sure they are 100% hay.

Try rubbing some hay around their mouth, sometimes this encourages them to bite it and find out that they actually like it.

Make toys out of hay and herbs. If you bunny doesn't eat cardboard, you can stuff egg cartons or cardboard tubes with hay and tasty smelling petals and herbs, this can encourage them. But please remove if they start to eat the cardboard. Cardboard can cause blockages.
You can get willow balls and stuff those with edibles, that way they can safely consume all of it, some willow tunnels and toys already come pre-filled! Just check that all the ingredients are definitely safe, as shop bought treats aren't always the best or safe.

Rabbits Diet

Rabbits have complex dietary needs and complex body system. So feeding your rabbit the correct diet is essential for a healthy rabbit. 

Unlike the popular cartoon carrot, what a lot of people believe and are taught from a young age, carrots should not be a huge part of a rabbit’s diet and should be limited, if fed at all. 

Unfortunately pet stores and supermarkets also sell many treats that aren’t ideal and could actually cause harm to your bunny/bunnies so please research, check the ingredients and nutritional value on the back of food and treat packets before feeding to your bunny, if unsure you are best to avoid.

Muesli – You will find rabbit muesli and food mixes in most pet food suppliers, these usually include corn, seeds as well as other nuggets and ingredients. These should be avoided, as this is classed as junk food for rabbits and can cause many health issues including: obesity, over grown teeth, lack of nutritional and vitamins leading to other major health issues.

Pellets – If your rabbit is younger than 5 months, they should be allowed a good amount of good quality pellets, if they aren’t eating much hay then you can reduce the amount of pellets you are offering them.
Pellets should only be around 5% of your rabbit’s diet, they should all be similar in size, shape and colour and contain at least 18% fibre and 14% protein, with the main ingredient being some form of hay or grass. Most rabbits should only be getting around 1 teaspoon of pellets a day if any at all and scattering them around instead of using a bowl will add to enrichment and make them last longer. It also stops multiple bunnies fighting over a bowl.
I highly recommend Supreme Science Selective - they do a few different ones, junior, house rabbit, adult, mature 4+ etc. for those that have it available to them and Oxbow for those outside of the UK.

Hay and Water – Hay comes in a wide variety with Timothy and Meadow hay being the two most popular and accessible. Orchard grass is popular with those with allergies. Fresh hay and grass should be at least 80% of your rabbits diet, this helps with their digestive system and keeps their gut moving, it also helps keep their teeth ground down as they are constantly growing. 
Hay should be in and above their litter tray, as they love to eat and poop at the same time.
No alfalfa hay over the age of 6 months or when they are weaned onto veg. (Too much calcium can cause bladder sludge or even kidney stones)
*Please do not feed rabbits mowed cuttings, grass that is cut from a strimmer or lawn mower can contain chemicals from the machinery and can ferment quicker.
Hay should ALWAYS be available for your rabbit along with fresh water.
Water is usually best enjoyed in a big heavy ceramic bowl, it is much more natural for them, than a bottle and they tend to drink more with a bowl and stay more hydrated.

Our Lincoln munching on hay

Fruit – Fruit should be given sparingly if at all, you should also treat root vegetables including carrots, like you would with fruit, as they are just as high in sugar. The general rule of giving fruit and root vegetables to your rabbits, is no more than two tablespoons a day and remove all pips, stones and seeds.

Safe Fruits
Apple,
Apricot,
Banana,
Blackberries with leaves,
Blueberries,
Cherries without stones,
Grapes,
Kiwi Fruit,
Mango,
Melon,
Nectarines,
Oranges without peel,
Papaya,
Peaches,
Pears,
Pineapple,
Plums without the stone,
Raspberries with leaves,
Strawberries with tops,
Tomatoes without leaves.

Vegetables – Vegetables can slowly be introduced to bunnies around the age of 5 months, but ideally 6 months is the best age to introduce them. It is best to introduce them to a new type of vegetable one at a time and see how your rabbit reacts; by keeping an eye on their behaviour and poop, waiting 24 hours between each new food. If their poop seems less solid and soft/sloppy, it could be that a certain type of vegetable doesn’t agree with them and has caused an upset tummy, wait until their poop returns to normal before feeding anything else new. Some rabbits react badly to vegetables, so you have to judge it by the individual.
Those that can have vegetables, 10-15% of their diet is a good amount to feed of feed your bunny, a mix of 4-6 different types, this can also include weeds and herbs, a cup full per 2kg of bunny is a good amount generally.
Dark leafy greens should be the most part of their vegetable intake.
Please wash all vegetables before feeding to your rabbits.

Be careful with the high calcium content, so spinach, kale and parsley should be given sparingly and not everyday.
Sensitive bunnies, may be better just having an option of herbs and weeds, as some buns tummies are much more sensitive.

Safe Vegetables (remember to treat root vegetables as a fruit)

(star*** means limit)

Artichoke leaves,

Asparagus,

Baby Corn (the ONLY corn)

Beetroot***

Broccoli with leaves***

Brussel Sprouts with leaves***
Butternut Squash,

Cabbage***

Carrots*** 

Cauliflower with leaves,

Celeriac,

Celery with leaves,
Chicory,
Courgette with flowers,
Cucumber***
Curly Kale***
Fennel,
Green beans,
Kohl rabi,
Parsnip,
Peas with the leaves and pods,
Peppers,
Pumpkin,
Radish Tops***
Rocket,
Romaine lettuce,
Spinach***
Spring Greens***
Swede,
Turnip***
Watercress.

Herbs – Herbs can also be part of their vegetable mix, they are slightly stronger in smell, taste and can take a few tries before your rabbit takes to even trying them.
Bunnies that tend to have a runny bottom after eating vegetables are often more tolerant to herbs, so it is worth a try.

Safe Herbs:
Basil,

Coriander,

Dill,

Mint,

Parsley,

Oregano,

Rosemary,

Sage,

Thyme.

Weeds – Weeds are an ideal source of food for our rabbits, usually easily accessible and a natural source of nutrition.
*Please only pick weeds from areas you are aware of that haven’t used chemicals or pesticides that could potentially harm your bunny, washing them will also help make sure they are clean, your bunnies can graze from these naturally in the garden as well.
*Please don’t use any weeds that have been cut with a strimmer or mower, these will ferment quicker and may contain chemicals from the machinery.

Safe Weeds

Borage,

Calendula,

Camomile,

Chickweed, 

Clover,

Coltsfoot,

Comfrey,

Dandelion, 

Goosegrass (cleavers) 

Lavender,

Mallow,

Nettle,

Nasturtium,

Shepherd’s purse,

Sow Thistle,

Plantain,
Wood Avens

Yarrow.

Human foods – Human processed foods aren’t generally the healthiest for humans and should not be fed to your rabbits.

TOP TIPS:
1) When changing over to a new food (from Muesli to pellets or a certain brand to another) you need to add a little of the new one to the old food, gradually add more of the new and reduce the old and change it over 7-14 days.

2) If your bunny stops eating completely, for over 12 hours and isn't their self, please consult a vet immediately.
3) NO nuts, NO seeds, NO corn (except baby corn) NO onion, garlic, leeks or chives.
4) If in doubt - avoid

Always keep an eye on buns poop and urine to help monitor their health and make sure their body score is good.

Suitable Rabbit Housing

Esme & Zoila thanks to Jeannie Juarez

 

I'm so glad to see companies pushing that a hutch is not enough. 

Years ago bunnies were known for munching on mixed bunny food, in a hutch outside with veg scraps being thrown in now and again - luckily research has come a long way and we know they need a lot of space and access to it all of the time. In the UK we are lucky that we can have bunnies living indoors or outdoors, as long as the enclosures are suitable and predator proof. 

We need to fulfil a bunny's life with access to their natural behaviours, of companionship, running, jumping, binkying, foraging, stretching etc.

Your bunny ideally needs an indoor covered space of at least 6ft by 2ft by 2ft, so they can hop along three times and stand up, you'll also need a large enclosure attached of a minimum of ​​3 metres long by 2 metres wide and at least 1m high.

It is important to have them either indoors or outdoors, as constant temperature change is not good for them, as their coat would have been grown thicker when outdoors to help protect them from the cooler weather.
If you have an indoor bunny and wish to move them outside, March/April time is best to transition in the UK when the weather is getting warmer.

Indoor Enclosures

Thanks to Katie Madonia

Some people prefer to have their bunnies indoors as you can enjoy them more and there are less predators around, but it isn't for everyone. It is best that they have their own 'base' to be able to go to, this should be their safe space for bunnies only, it is good to have a good size hide in there too.

The basics your home base should include:

Hides
Litter Tray

Rabbit corner litter trays don't tend to be big enough, large rectangle cat trays are very popular, you can also use an under the bed storage box.

You can fill the base of your tray with 100% wood litter pellets, 100% paper pellets, 100% paper based bedding or just hay. (never clumping litter, corn litter, clay litter or other materials and please make sure your litter doesn't contain baking soda, it can bring on vomiting and rabbits can't vomit, so the gas just builds up and can cause illness and even death)
You should also have lots of hay in or/and above the litter tray, as bunnies love to eat and poop at the same time. If you put piles of hay elsewhere, they may toilet there too, so best to supply more litter trays if you want to add hay elsewhere.
Toys/Chews
Toddler toys work well like stacking cups or toddler plastic key sets, to throw around. But if they chew them very often, they may only be good when supervised.
Willow toys are amazing, they are made of wood and fully edible, they help keep your buns constantly growing teeth to stay trim. Although hay does this, hay helps more with the back teeth, these willow toys or similar edible chew toys are great for the front teeth. If you have an apple tree, you can offer them the branches.

Water
Bowls are much more natural for rabbits to drink from and they tend to drink more with access to fresh water in a heavy ceramic bowl. It might be worth placing a couple, incase they were to accidentally kick out the water from one or cover it in hay, as you don't want them to be without water. I wouldn't recommend a bottle, they are can harbour bacteria and harder to clean, the water also doesn't come out very quickly and buns can get frustrated and end up ignoring it or chewing it, which isn't good for their teeth. I also wouldn't recommend any vitamins or additions to their water, it can discourage them to drink and they can become dehydrated - a healthy bun shouldn't need any extra vitamins.

Hay

Unlimited access to good quality hay and/or grasses (avoid Readi grass it is too rich and can upset tummies) Timothy, Meadow Hay and/or Orchard Grass is great. You may find your bun can be selective depending on the brand or batch of hay. (Rabbits over the age of 6 months or those having vegetables shouldn't have Alfalfa hay, as it is full of calcium and instead of helping with growing, they can have too much calcium and it can cause bladder sludge and even kidney stones.)

Edgar's House in Canada thanks Emily Beckley

Esme & Zoila free home but this is their home base thanks to Jeannie Juarez

Bunny Base, otherwise free roam thanks Hannah Louise

Bunny Rooms

Some people are very lucky that they have a spare room they can covert for their bunnies. 

If you have your bunnies in your house, whether they have their own room or free roaming. Please make sure they have their own space and that you bunny proof. It is in their instincts to chew, so if you are precious of your carpets, skirting boards and furniture, it may be best to not give them access. All cables should be hidden and away, you can also get strong cable covers, to help protect your electrical products and your bunnies, just incase they get to them. I prefer to have furniture that reaches the floor too, so they can't get under furniture. Plants need to be safe for bunnies, up on high shelves they can't reach and no scented products should be used around them, as they are prone to respiratory issues. Lavender and Mint are safe if they accidentally reach them, it can also help keep flies away and help the room smell nice (if you like the smell obviously!)

Bunny Room thanks Gretchen L. Fischer

Theon, Sapphire & Calypso's Housing thanks Jessica Amber Viljakainen

Outdoor Enclosures

Run (attached to a shed, by a bunny safe tunnel on the right) Thanks Annette Rippon

The traditional hutch you used to see people keeping their bunnies in are not suitable on their own. You need a good size indoor space for them, often made of wood, as plastic can sweat and cause condensation, metal can heat up too much or get too cold. Often people opt for a shed or barn, but hutches can work, as long as they are a suitable size within a suitable aviary type enclosure, dog run or have a suitable size run attached and available to them all of the time. 

Your indoor space should be at least 6 feet long, 2 feet high and 2 feet in depth, this is an average for one rabbit, as giants would typically need a lot more space. You can also gauge the space by the ‘3 hop rule’ which is when your bunny can stretch out and hop along their hutch at least three times and be able to stand in their enclosure.

The recommended attached open space should be at least ​​3 metres long by 2 metres wide and at least 1m high, again this is for an average and multiple bunnies and giants will need more. The more secure space you can offer the better though.

They will need a hidden, covered area for a safe space for them to go to if they feel they want to, this is often classed as their bedding area. If you fill their safe area with straw, this is also a great insulator in colder weather.

Please make sure all enclosures are predator proof with materials, no way of anyone digging in or out, paving slabs are okay. Please don't use a meshed floor, this can cause injury to their feet, if you do mesh the bottom, please make sure it is dug under the ground, so their feet aren't exposed to it.

Their enclosure needs to be out of the way of draughts and covered from the elements, you can get insulation covers or use tarpaulin to help keep them out of the rain. Some people use old duvets on the outside of the hutches, so the buns can't chew them, but it helps keep the hutch warm in the winter.

Photo credit: Thank you to those that provided photos of your amazing enclosures, I have included the names under the photos.

Microchipping your pet

What is Microchipping?

An animal microchip is roughly the size of a large grain of rice and uses radio frequency to transmit a 15 digit number to a microchip reader, to be able to identify your pet. The microchip is safely, quickly and simply inserted under the skin of your pet, the procedure only takes a couple of seconds but should last a lifetime, apart from the odd occasion where it may fail or come out, but if inserted correctly by a vet or trained microchip implanter it is likely to last a lifetime.

The cost of Microchipping. Reason to Microchip.

Microchipping is usually around £10 but there are several schemes and rescues that often offer microchipping for free, it will ensure that if your pet is found then it is likely to be reunited with you as soon as possible.

Various animals can be microchipped including cats, rabbits, birds and even some reptiles, so it is worth looking into, if you have a pet. It is law in the UK as of 2016 that you MUST microchip your dogs, regular checks should take place.

Not Microchipping vs Microchipping

If your animal is found and taken to a vet or professional to get checked for a microchip and no chip is found, they have 7 days for the owner to come forward, if no owner comes forward then the animal can be rehomed.

If your animal is found and taken to a vet or professional to get checked for a microchip and a microchip is found, then the 15 digit number is checked on the pet log database, where the registered owners details should be and you will be contacted and hopefully reunited with your beloved pet.

If your details however are not up to date or they are unable to reach you on the number provided, then you will have 30 days to get in contact, after the 30 days your pet can be rehomed. So it is extremely important to keep your details up to date, there is however a small charge for this service.

So if you find an animal that you believe may be lost or stolen, then please take it to your local vets or rescue, then hopefully they can be reunited with their owners.

One of our Foster bunnies, Bilbo and I, in 2017

Rabbits can be microchipped in the UK, but hamsters currently can not.

Suitable Hamster Setups

Cage size is very important and often pet stores sell unsuitable cages, some claiming that they are suitable for hamsters up to the age of 12 weeks (You often adopt them between 6-12 weeks of age! So the cage would only be suitable for a couple of weeks, if at all)

Small cages can cause so much stress for hamsters, from causing cage aggressive, climbing and bar biting and even bring on neurological disorders, which are usually genetic, but usually bought on by stress.
You also can't fit all the suitable items needed for a hamster cage, with the housing, exercise, enrichment etc.
You will need to consider the bar spacing, as you don't want them to escape and a good deep base, so you can fill with suitable substrate, so they can burrow.
Top opening cages can be scarier for some, as you are coming from above, like a predator would in the wild, so if you have a top opening cage only, then make sure they know you are there, by softly speaking to them, otherwise you could spook them.

The RSPCA used to have a minimum cage size of 80cm x 50cm x 50cm - which they often abide by when they adopt out their animals and sometimes even suggest 100cm x 50cm cages, but they no longer have an official recommended size listed, which is frustrating and I feel their needs to be a law against small cages - obviously you can use them for carriers, hospital/recovery cages or for certain special cases, but not for everyday housing.

--------------------

Syrian hamsters often crave more space than other species, especially females, but obviously all hamsters and individuals and have their own preferences. In my experience and research, they prefer barred cages, as often chew out of plastic base cages, wooden cages or chew on the metal bars of the adapted, popular Detolf unit.

Dwarf hamsters (Winter Whites, Campbell Dwarfs and Hybrid dwarfs - also known as Russian dwarfs) can usually have the same cages recommended for Syrian hamsters, as they can have up to 1cm bar spacing, but they can also do well in non barred cages and tanks.

Robo Hamsters do great in plastic base cages or tanks, if you do choose a barred cage, please make sure it is suitable and has a maximum of 0.7cm bars, as they can squeeze through the smallest of spaces, as they 'pancake' you may see this when they get too hot, as it helps them cool down.

Chinese Hamsters can also get through tiny spaces, as they are very thin and small, especially young ones, so I always choose an all plastic cage or tank and steer away from barred cages, but I would imagine that a cage with 0.7cm or less bar spacing will be suitable for them too.

Suitable barred cages:
(Syrians, Dwarfs can have 1cm maximum bar spacing, Robos and Chinese 0.7cm or less)
Small Skyline Barney cage,
Skyline Barney cage XL,
Skyline Alexander,
Savic Plaza,
Ritz Rat cage,
Alaska,
Mamble 100,
Little Friends Coco Cage,
Kerbl Gabbia,
Ferplast Karat 100,
Ritz Rat Cage,
and Jemima 80.

Our Pixie the Dwarf hamster's Setup (Small Skyline Barney cage)

Our Buddy the Syrian hamster's Setup (Alaska cage)

Suitable non barred cages:
(Syrians often get frustrated in these cages and chew their way out or chew the metal bar on the Detolf, so I wouldn't recommend any of the following for Syrian hamsters personally)
Adapted Detolf Ikea Unit,
Ferplast Duna Multy Maxi
Zoozone 2
Skyline Marrakesh,
and Living World Green Eco Habitat Medium.

Our Buttons the Chinese hamster's Setup (Duna Multy Maxi)

Our Buttons the Chinese hamster's Setup (Zoozone 2)

Photo thanks to Sara Gee of Onyx the Syrian's Setup (Living World Green Eco Habitat Medium)

Pawhut wooden cages over 80cm by 50cm or larger are also suitable - but I personally do not like wooden cages, as we try to encourage hamsters to chew wood to help their teeth health but then we don't want them to chew their cage, so some chew their way out, you would also need to safely coat the whole cage with a suitable, safe sealant, if it isn't coated already, to protect from urine soaking in and staining and making the cage permanently smell.

Falsely advertised cages that state they are 80cm by 50cm cages, if you measure the smallest part of the bases, it falls way below, because the bases taper in quite a bit, also the Hamster Heaven and Sky Metro cages have lots of reports of escapees, through the front door, that needs to be closed on the second latch. Also lots of reported escapes through the tubes, which are also dangerous, as they are too small for Syrians and they often live in them, filling with their bedding, food and even toilet in them, they don't have a huge amount of ventilation in the tubes as it is, but it can make them ill if they live in them like that. Not forgetting the penthouse on the Hamster Heaven, where they have had lots of escapees and reports of them just staying and living in there.

So I wouldn't recommend the Hamster Heaven, Savic Ruffy 2 or Sky Metro permanently, even though they state they are 80cm by 50cm.

Our Beatrix the Dwarf hamster's Setup (Sky Metro/Hamster Heaven)

Our Fidget the Dwarf hamster's Setup (Sky Metro/Hamster Heaven)

Our Cookie the Syrian hamster's Setup (Sky Metro/Hamster Heaven)

*Remember to fill your substrate to the top of the base of the cage if you can, the more substrate, usually the better for burying, unfortunately my setup pictures, don't all reflect this.*

Cage Contents

Here is a basic list of what you should supply in your hamster enclosure:

Substrate
Suitable substrate such as unscented, paper based bedding that does not contain baking powder/soda, these can usually be used as bedding too. Some examples are Carefresh, Kaytee Clean and Cosy, Fitch or Small Pet Select paper based bedding. You want to aim to have at least 6 inches of substrate/bedding, so that your hamster can burrow, which is one of their natural behaviours.
Please do not use any form of fluffy bedding and most shavings are unsuitable, if you must use shavings, please make sure they are made from Aspen only.

Hide/House
A good size hide is essential, some hamsters prefer to burrow and sleep under their substrate, but those it is important to provide a nice size hide for them to be able to use if they need to, this can help them feel secure and keep them warm. You can fill it with paper based bedding or unscented tissue/toilet roll is fine to use, you can rip it up or leave them as they are.
Wooden houses are a good option, I love the Ferplast Sin Houses, they come in various sizes.
I would avoid using fabric houses, due to if they get chewed, they can ingest the fabric/fluff which is dangerous and can cause a blockage or your hamster could get stuck in the hole they have created.

Ferplast, Wooden Sin House

Wheel
Your hamster will need a solid (please avoid wire wheels) suitable size wheel, plastic or wooden are both suitable, just make sure they don't have any gaps, where they can catch their little feet and no splintering wood. I have personally found that wooden wheels are a lot quieter and stay quiet, you may wish to coat it in suitable water based sealant to protect the wood from urine staining.
Roborovski and Dwarf hamsters should have a minimum of a 20cm wheel / 8 inches.
Chinese and Syrian hamsters should have a minimum of a 28cm wheel / 12 inches.
Plastic Trixie Wheels and the Wooden Trixie Wheels are highly recommended.

Plastic Trixie Wheel and Wooden Trixie Wheel

Saucers style wheels can be used, but they must be the same size as a suitable wheel and must be an addition to having a suitable upright wheel. I prefer not to use them as they take up a lot of space and I often find that my hamsters tend to run slightly sidewards on them, so not great for their spines.

Sand bath
Your hamster will need a good size sand bath, it needs to be big enough for them to be able to roll around in and deep enough to dig around in. I often use ceramic dog bowls or ceramic lasagne dishes, although if you can supply a larger area of sand, that would be even better. Roborovski hamsters, although they are the smallest species of hamster, they usually benefit the most from a larger area of sand. 
I prefer to use a ceramic container, as cardboard can be chewed up and leak out the sand, plastic and foil can be chewed or cracked, which can cause blockages or injury, so best not to use, unless it is really thick plastic.
You do not need to use a container at all and can fill some of the base with sand, but this can make it more difficult to change or remove.
Sand baths are for hamsters to be able to clean themselves, as they cannot get wet, as if they get wet they can get really ill and due from hyperthermia. Some hamsters will also choose to litter train themselves in their sand, so you may want to provide two separate sand baths or sift out their urine and poop regularly.
Suitable sand is usually reptile sand that doesn't contain colourants or calcium, you can also use hamster sand and some chinchilla sand, make sure it is sand though and not dust or powder, as they are too fine and can cause respiratory issues. You can however use Children's play sand, but it has larger grains and will need baking to fully sanitise and dry it out.
Unsuitable sand is bird sand, builders sand, calcium sand, dust or powdered sand.

Tiny Friends Farm Sand is safe but often questioned in forums and groups, due to people suggesting they have changed the ingredients or different from the US one, which are both apparently not the case. I contacted them myself and they have allowed me to share my response with my readers.
So it is up to you whether you use this product yourself or choose another brand.

You may need to click to enlarge the image.
Email received Thursday 8th April 2021

Water source
Your hamster will need either a bottle or ceramic bowl to drink from, you can even offer both!
Most people opt for a bottle, as they generally stay cleaner and can't be knocked over or get filled with bedding, but some hamsters choose to chew the bottle nozzle which isn't great for their teeth.
If you use a bottle, you need to make sure they can use it, that water comes out of it, that is doesn't leak and stays clean. Bottles can harbour germs or algae, so you need to check it, clean it regularly and change the water daily ideally.
If you use a bowl, I'd to use a ceramic one, as they are generally heavier, which means they are less likely to get knocked over and I've heard of other animals having allergies to metal bowls. It is best to keep it away from bedding, otherwise you may end up with a bowl full of soaked bedding and your hamster won't be able to hydrate themselves. You also want a shallow bowl, as hamsters shouldn't get wet, so this will reduce the chances of them falling in, some people use tea light candle holders.
Just make sure you check they have clean water regularly, that they have a clean bowl and that it is replaced and topped up when needed.

Food bowl (optional)
Food bowls are optional for their seed mixes and pellets, as scatter feeding is good enrichment, by scattering their food around their cage, they can 'hunt' for it and collect it themselves, as hamsters tend to be hoarders, so it keeps them active and adds some activity. You can also supply a treat bar or vegetable Whimzee, dog chew to help their teeth, which also won't need a bowl.
You may want to supply a small plate or bowl for any fresh food, so that it is easy to remove if they don't eat it, remember to check their nests for fresh food the day after as well, as you don't want it to perish.


Anything else is optional, but tunnels and wooden chew toys are great additions, please make sure that they can easily get through the tunnels, most tunnels sold for hamsters can be fairly tight so you will want to buy rat size tunnels for species like Syrian hamsters.
Cardboard and wooden tunnels are preferred or hard plastic, please be careful with the corrugated tunnels (like the yellow one pictured) as they can split at the folds, which can cause cuts and injuries.

Photo thanks to Sara Gee of Onyx the Syrian hamster

Guide to Rabbit Poop

Once you have your rabbit/s, It is very important to regularly check your rabbit's poops as they are a great indication of a rabbit's diet and health.

Rabbits produce two types of poo, fecal pellets and cecotrophes.

 

Rabbit fecal pellets - they should be rounded, uniform in size, dark brown to golden colour, no liquid and barely with any odour. These are mainly made up of undigested food, hay and grass, you're likely to see these in the wild and they are known as the 'regular' bunny poops. Rabbits should produce 200-300 of these poops daily, per rabbit, they shouldn't be too hard and crumble when squeezed.

Photo thanks to Laura Hinitt

Photo thanks to Gemma Sheen

Cecotrophes, also called caecrotrophes, cecal or night faeces - these are dark, grape like, can be smelly, mushy with a thin layer of mucus. These are usually eaten straight from a rabbit's bottom, you'll often see a rabbit cleaning themselves and then munching on something, it is likely that they are eating their cecotrophes. They are also known as night faeces as they like to do it in private, usually in the night time, although they can eat them any time of day.

Cecotrophes are important to eat as they are made up of nutrients from their food that has been passed through their caecum / appendix, fermented and released for their consumption.

If you see lots of cecotrophes then your rabbit's diet may be too rich and it is important to up the amount of hay they are eating and maybe reduce the amount of pellets or veg. (A rabbit's diet should be at least 80% hay)

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Irregular poop size and consistency can be a sign of some gut issues.

Small dark irregular poop can be a sign of a slow gut and possible gut statis, it can also happen through stress and other illness, so it is important to keep an eye on your rabbit's poop and if this is happening make sure they are eating enough hay, moving around enough. These poops can also be a sign of dehydration and a result of medication. If they aren't eating then you'll need to see a vet immediately.

 

Picture thanks to Sarah A Sims

 

Small dark long poops can be a sign of ingested hair, dehydration, lack of fibre and a result of medication, so make sure your bunny is moving, getting enough water and hay.

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Connected / linked poop trails can be a result of ingested hair or carpet, as rabbits cannot vomit, their hair is passed through their intestines and appear as connected poops. The best way to ensure your bunny doesn't ingest too much hair is to regularly brush them and make sure they are eating a good amount of hay to keep it passing through if they do ingest some.

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Loose poop is usually a result of too much fruit or veg or they have eaten something that doesn't agree with them, it can also be a sign of other illnesses, to treat a runny bottom you can wipe your bunny with unscented, non-alcohol wipes and feed only hay for 24 hours and see if it improves, if no improvement at all or it gets worse, you'll need to see a vet immediately.

 

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Diarrhoea, true diarrhoea in bunnies is very rare and is usually a sign that you need to seek a veterinarian's opinion immediately and take a stool sample with you, it is often a sign of illness, poison or parasites. In young rabbits it can be a sign that a kit has been weaned too early.

Domesticated Hamster Species and Gender

Species
Syrian Hamsters - Syrians are solitary animals and must be kept alone and never introduced to others, these are the largest species of domesticated hamster, usually advised for beginners as they are generally easier to handle due to their size, also known as Teddy Bear hamsters and other pet store names such as Panda bear and Golden hamsters. There are many different colours and coats available, some being long haired and others short haired too.

{Syrians}

{Campbell, Winter White, Russian Dwarf, Robo and Chinese}

Campbell - Campbell hamsters can be kept in pairs or groups providing there is enough space for them, they are from the same litter, have always been together and are of the same gender, they should have at least one of each of everything per hamster and to keep an eye on them as they may begin to fight and will need splitting up, unfortunately once split you cannot reintroduce.

Winter White - Winter White hamsters can be kept in pairs or groups providing there is enough space for them, they are from the same litter, have always been together and are of the same gender, they should have at least one of each of everything per hamster and to keep an eye on them as they may begin to fight and will need splitting up, unfortunately once split you cannot reintroduce. They are given the name Winter white as during the winter their coat will turn much lighter and in the summer months they will go a much darker brown or grey colour. You are often given papers if they are a true Winter white species.

Hybrid/Russian Dwarf - Hybrid hamsters are a cross between Winter whites and Campbell's we call them Russian Dwarf hamsters in most places, they can be kept in pairs or groups providing there is enough space for them, they are from the same litter, have always been together and are of the same gender, they should have at least one of each of everything per hamster and to keep an eye on them as they may begin to fight and will need splitting up, unfortunately once split you cannot reintroduce.

Roborovski - Roborovski hamsters, also known as Robos, can be kept in pairs or groups providing there is enough space for them, they are from the same litter, have always been together and are of the same gender, they should have at least one of each of everything per hamster and to keep an eye on them as they may begin to fight and will need splitting up, unfortunately once split you cannot reintroduce. They are super cute, the smallest of the species and fast little creatures.

The whiter the Robo the more prone they seem to be to neurological disorders, which can be devastating, which is usually down to genetics but can be brought on by poor environment.

Chinese - Chinese hamsters are solitary animals and must be kept alone and never introduced to others, they are mouse like hamsters as they have a longer tail than other hamster species but stunning creatures, but hard to come by in the UK.

Life Span

Most hamsters live around 2-3 years.

Gender  

Male and female hamsters aren't much different to care for, they all have their own individual personalities.
Females do go into heat every 4 days for a couple of hours which can leave them smelling a little more, but I personally have not smelt much difference and found females to be a lot more lively and adventurous.
Male Syrians also have large male area which can be a third of their bodies, so it is quite easy to tell the difference when a male and female hamster has reached maturity, ladies will have nipples on the underside of them. You may also notice some spots on your male hamsters, these are nothing to worry about and are their scent glands, Syrians have their scent glands one on each side of their hips, some are more visible than others and can become greasy if overactive. Male Campbell, Winter White, Russian Dwarf, Robos and Chinese hamsters have a scent gland on their tummy/underside, almost like a high up navel/belly button.
When it comes to long haired Syrians, girls will have a slight skirt and a couple of tufts, where as a boy will tend to have a big skirt and a large amount of hair on their back end.

Photo of hamsters credit: Sadie-Elloise Garnett (Syrian 2), Danielle Sommerville (Syrian 3), 

Dow Kengradomying (Campbell), Harry Williams (Winter White), Georgia Smith (Syrian 1&4 and Russian Dwarf), Crystal Shaw (Robo), Bethany Anne Hinton (Chinese)